The most beautiful places in Småland
Where history lives on by the water – between a Renaissance castle, old lanes and the view across to Öland.
Arriving
Kalmar feels like a city that doesn't put its history on display but lives with it.
Kalmar lies on the east coast of Småland, right on the Kalmarsund strait and opposite Öland. The mighty castle, the quiet paths of the old town and the fortified city center on Kvarnholmen tell of a time when Nordic history was written here. And yet Kalmar doesn't feel heavy or like a museum. Between the water, cafés, little shops and green hideaways, that special feeling arises that I love so much about Sweden: there's a lot to discover – and still no need to hurry.
I find Kalmar most beautiful in the early evening. That is when I sit by the water below the castle, the walls glow warmly in the last light, and across the strait the long bridge stretches over to Öland. The day visitors have gone, the lanes of Kvarnholmen grow quiet, and somewhere a café is still stacking its chairs. In these moments I feel why this town will not let me go.
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In the historic province of Småland and also the capital of Kalmar län (county).
Right on the Baltic coast, with views of Öland and the Öland Bridge.
The Kalmar Union between Denmark, Norway and Sweden was sealed in the castle.
One of the best-preserved Renaissance castles in Northern Europe.
Tip: The castle, old town and Kvarnholmen are easy to combine on foot. Please check the official websites beforehand for opening hours and seasonal offers.
What you should see
With its towers, walls and view across the Kalmarsund, the castle is the city's great landmark. Its history goes back to the 12th century; in 1397 the Kalmar Union was sealed here. In the Vasa era it was given its present appearance as a Renaissance castle.
View on Google MapsRight by the castle, the old town begins, with quiet, curving lanes and lovingly preserved houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. Beneath the paths lie traces of medieval Kalmar – a place for walking slowly and looking closely.
View on Google MapsAfter Kalmar was relocated in the 17th century, the new center grew up on Kvarnholmen – surrounded by walls and bastions. Today historic buildings, little shops, cafés, restaurants and the harbor come together here quite naturally.
View on Google MapsThe spacious Stortorget is one of the best-preserved Baroque squares in Sweden. On its north side stands Kalmar Cathedral, completed in 1703 and designed by Nicodemus Tessin the Elder – calm, clear and impressive.
View on Google MapsHidden behind walls in the old town is a preserved 19th-century town garden. Among fruit trees, flower beds and old buildings, Kalmar becomes completely quiet for a moment. The garden and café open seasonally from May to September.
View on Google MapsAt the eastern end of Kvarnholmen, Kattrumpan lies right by the water. From here and from the guest harbor, Kalmar shows its maritime side – with boats, swimming spots and a wide view across the strait all the way to the Öland Bridge.
View on Google MapsIn the former steam mill building, the regional museum tells the story of Kalmar and the coast. Especially well known is the exhibition on the warship Kronan, which sank off Öland in 1676 and whose finds bring history astonishingly close.
View on Google MapsKalmar is lively without being loud. Maybe that's exactly why the city touches me: history, water and everyday life are so close together that you don't just tick off sights, but at some point simply stay, look and arrive.
Impressions
A few moments I captured in Kalmar – the castle by the water, the lanes of the old town and a summer day among cafés, flowers and old facades.
Why this place
Kalmar reminds me that arriving doesn't always mean being all alone in a quiet place. Sometimes it's a city that leaves enough room: for past and present, for water and old walls, for a coffee in the sun and a walk without a plan. Here you can see a lot – and still stay true to yourself.
♥ ♥ ♥
The journey continues
Discover the other stops on my journey through the land I long for – place by place, with heart.
